Notice in the Hip Loader that the place where the rope would naturally want to cross is very far forward relative to where we want the friction to go, so pre-crossing isn't so ideal here. In the Hip Harness, the rope naturally crosses itself right where we're building our friction, which makes this an ideal choice in this instance. 

Thanks for your questions! The simple answer is that we usually go over to make a munter hitch (and under to make an X friction). It's not strictly necessary to do it this way, but if you reversed either of those things you would get a friction that looks different than what you're used to, as you'd be looking at the "backside" of it.The answer your question about crossing your ropes in the leg wrap is related to the above answer. Gorgone's Hip Harness uses X frictions at the thigh. It's often easier to "pre-cross" your ropes when making X frictions, otherwise you finish a cuff and then need to go over one pass and under the stem, whereas if you pre-cross, your running line comes around the body right next to the stem and you get to have control over precisely where the cross happens. 

You’re definitely encouraged to lab whatever ideas this video inspires! Likely you’ll find that using a basket tie will create more stability, less choice between standing up vs laying on belly rope, and therefore less of a “predicament” experience for your bottom.

Hi! You can find a yuki fix tutorial here: Basic Knots Tutorial by Anna Bones | Shibari Study

Yes, these are suspendable forms and attaching to the top wrap with a tight epsilon that splits the friction of the main stem is an appropriate choice. You can also attach a secondary suspension line to the wrists (in addition to the top wrap) to change the position of the arms, which often helps with blood flow.

It’s good to note that both of these arm binders offer minimal chest support, and if your bottom finds this uncomfortable you could consider adding supportive wraps around the ribs as you see here: Diamond Strappado Tutorial | Shibari Study

Not yet! The tutorial for this particular futomomo pattern is forthcoming :)

Cassondra Evans The length used here is 8m, but you might find that that's not enough or too long depending on your body type. We recommend trying the tie with different lengths of rope to see what works best for you!

Good question! For this tie you’ll want to stick to side suspension regardless of the hand position. Even with the hands in, loading from the front or back will put additional pressure on the neck, either directly through the ropes or via the hands.

Hi! If you give this a try you’ll see that locking the cuff with a bowline creates an uneven pull at the top of the cuff. One solution is to wrap the top of the cuff again with the bight before locking (behind the cinch). This will mean that the cinch itself might load a bit unevenly. In most cases, locking as shown will probably be easier and more effective than locking with a bowline!

Thanks for your question! You’re not wrong, but it is different to a degree. In the third knot featured, the traditional Somerville Bowline, the bight is pinched on the side of the cuff where the free rope moves, which applies a greater deal of friction to the free rope. You’ll find that you can still move that middle rope within the cuff, but it will take more effort. In the fourth knot shown, the bight is trapped on the opposite side of the cuff, causing it to lay flat over top of the middle rope and allowing for much easier movement.