Hi! Thank you so much for catching this! We’re currently sorting through a LOT of older raw files to find this original video and re-edit it. Thanks in advance for your patience and thanks again for bringing it to our attention. We’ll upload a properly edited replacement video as soon as we’re able :)

When the second rope is added, even if it doesn’t anchor to the body in a specific place, it does enhance the overall structure of the tie, helping the whole harness to act as a unit. If you’re experiencing slippage in this harness, the first step should be to evaluate your tension, but also, adding the second rope will be helpful!

The second thing we’d like to offer is caution anytime you’re trying to suspend by pulling a harness straight upwards. That’s when you’re at greatest risk of a harness slipping up towards the neck (and this applies to upper body harnesses across the board). This harness, when loaded more vertically from the front, will work best if the model is laying back into it like you see in the suspension line video.

Hi and thanks for your question! The short answer is: yes, we recommend the additional rope be used when anchoring from the front. But keep reading for a more thorough answer.

There’s a lot to consider in this whole thread. The first thing we’d like to point out is that the harness as a whole is constructed of many individual wraps of rope around a relatively large part of the body (more of the upper body than you often see tied in a box tie, for example). And these single passes of rope with lots of space between them are only anchored together using little frictions, which means that you’re likely to encounter a bit more slippage in this harness than you might in others (especially if your tension is on the loose side).

Hi and thanks for asking! For just one leg, definitely a SCT. If you were trying to bind, say, two legs to a hard point, then you might choose use a DCT around the ankles. If you’re thinking about how to lock a limb to a hard point, definitely keep watching through the Lock-Offs and Yuki Fix tutorials.

This harness was designed for front loading only. If you’d like a harness for side loading the hips, you could consider the gun slinger!

Given that this tie is only intended for floorwork, the risk of nerve compression here is a lot lower than it would be in a suspension (you’re totally right that a knot on the arm here in a suspendable harness would be a big problem). Of course, the only person who is truly able to answer this question is the person being tied. Some people have much more sensitive nerves than others, and it’s always a good idea for bottoms to be knowledgeable about nerves and doing hand checks, even in floor work!

Because all of these ties use such little rope, you can easily untie one form and tie another form from this same series. Try to enjoy the tying and the untying, not just the final positions, to help the scene flow between different ties!

Hi! You can use this harness for suspension! You can also find a variety of other arms-out harnesses here. And yes, you could use it as a base for the Face-Up Third Rope_ if_ you wanted to suspend from the front, but this isn’t your only option.

Using three wraps is a great option, especially if you’ve had success with it. The fact that you find it more comfortable is the most important thing here!

For other people reading this comment: Lots of riggers will struggle with tensioning a cuff with three passes (though Gigi’s tip to pin the bight with the rope might help). A well tensioned cuff with two wraps is just as good or better than a poorly tensioned cuff with three wraps, so just keep a close eye on your tensions as you proceed!

Adding a little friction before the cinch will help to maintain an even tension within the cuff and assures that the cinch is isolated from the cuff. We encourage thoughtful exploration though! If you experiment with placing the cinch before the building the friction, make sure to isolate the cinch from the cuff.